June 19, 2015

Analysis, part 12 - Jacket Bottom

Like the DS9/NEM "captain jacket," the bottom of the DS9/NEM formal jacket was flat (horizontally straight) across the back.

Nemesis
Insurrection
Nemesis


The lower front, however, extended to a triangular point on each side: 

Nemesis
Insurrection publicity photos


Insurrection
This downward slope of the lower front points began at the side seams, and, as you can see from the Captain Picard example below, the jacket back was the same length as the bib: 











Nemesis


The distance the point extended from the bottom of the bib usually appeared to be roughly equivalent to the height of the lower bib panel, or about 4".

Nemesis
Insurrection publicity photos


However, some of the formal jackets had lower front points that were shorter - more like 3":

DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges"
Insurrection publicity photo


Oddly, some jackets had extremely short lower front points - about 2 ½" or less:



Examining a Nemesis group publicity photo, one can see that there was noticeable variation amongst the cast:



Note that Beverly's and Worf's were about the same depth (or, if anything, Beverly's was a bit longer), and note that Picard's was longer than Geordi's and Data's. 

If there was a determining factor for the depth of the front triangular extensions, we were unable to discern it.

One might be tempted to conclude that there were differing standards for each gender, as this was often the case with the duty uniforms of various eras, but that theory goes out the window when one considers that Riker's front points extended about 4" beneath the bottom of the bib/bib panel, while Admiral Ross' only did about 3"; also, that Beverly's extended about 4", while Deanna's only extended about 2 ½" or 3". 

However, in our opinion, it's aesthetically safer to err on the slighter side on ladies' jackets. 

Considering the evidence, it seems that no particular standard was employed; if anything, the depth of the lower front points was determined on an individual basis based on the physique of the wearer. 


NOTE: On our men's formal jacket pattern, we standardized the depth of the lower front triangular points so they extend to 4" past the bottom edge of the bib/bib panel on all sizes. 



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