Like the other DS9/NEM-era Starfleet uniforms, the formal jacket had a wool elastique, vertically quilted yoke that extended onto the shoulder points.
The quilt lines were all ¾" apart and parallel.
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| Nemesis |
The formal jacket's yoke depth appeared to be approximately equivalent to that of the corresponding duty uniforms (jumpsuits, "captain jackets," and admiral jackets):
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| Insurrection |
However, actual yoke depth (when measured from the center front) seemed to vary considerably ...
Captain Picard's jacket, for instance, had a yoke depth of eight bib quilt lines, or 4", which was comparable to that of his corresponding "captain jacket":
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| Insurrection |
Data's jacket had a yoke depth of six bib quilt lines, or 3", which was comparable to that of his corresponding duty jumpsuit:
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| Nemesis |
Riker's appeared to have a yoke depth of six bib quilt lines (3") as well, but it might have been 5 (2 ½"):
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Worf and Geordi both had a yoke depth of five bib quilt lines (2 ½"), which was shallower than Geordi's corresponding duty jumpsuits' (we're not sure about Worf, though, since jumpsuits had a shallower yoke than others'):
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| Nemesis |
Beverly's yoke was surprisingly deep - seven quilt lines (3 ½"), which was actually deeper than Riker's, Data's, Worf's, and Geordi's!
Still, though, this was roughly on par with her duty jumpsuit's yoke depth; she had a deeper than usual jumpsuit yoke, more like Jadzia's than the typically shallow yoke on Ezri's, Kira's, and Deanna Troi's jumpsuits:
(Speaking of which, we never got a good read on Deanna's formal jacket yoke depth, sorry!)
Despite the minor variation, at this point, the evidence indicates to us that the formal jacket's yoke depth should be roughly equivalent with the wearer's duty uniform counterpart; note that Captain Picard's was at least a full inch deeper than everybody else except Beverly, which was also true of his DS9/NEM "captain jacket."
Also note that everybody else's yoke depth, particularly Worf's and Beverly's, appeared to be about the same as their corresponding duty jumpsuits'.
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| DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges" |
However, that theory goes out the window when you consider two things - first, that Admiral Ross' formal jacket yoke depth was, like Data's and possibly Riker's, six bib quilt lines (3"), which was at least a full inch shallower than his admiral jacket's yoke depth:
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| Insurrection |
There was also a random Vulcan guy in the background of Insurrection who had a bizarrely deep yoke (and he was neither a captain or an admiral, as evidenced by his officer's jacket):
Maybe he was a Changeling (the Dominion War was raging during this time), or perhaps he was a Romulan spy - in either case not getting the uniform quite right?
Seeing as the yoke depth obviously varied quite a bit, the question regarding screen-accuracy arises.
Wading through the conflicting evidence, we believe disregarding Admiral Ross' jacket as a standard for screen-accuracy to be a reasonable step, as the television uniforms were likely constructed in a tremendous rush - especially his, as no formal admiral uniform was seen earlier that production year in Insurrection (and thus his had to be designed and constructed from scratch on a television schedule).
We think it's also safe to disregard Mr. Vulcan Guy's yoke depth as either a production error, experiment, or some other such thing in the production rush, which is probably why it was slapped on a guy in the background who was only seen a few seconds.
That leaves the majority of the TNG crew's formal jackets, which, as mentioned previously, appeared to have yoke depths roughly equivalent to that of their corresponding duty uniforms ("captain jacket" and duty jumpsuits).
At this point, we classify Worf's as an exception, since his duty jumpsuit also had a shallower yoke than others'.
For this reason, on our men's formal jacket pattern, we have drafted the admiral and captain versions with a 4" yoke depth (from center front), and the officer version with a 3" yoke depth.
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| But those are more like guidelines than actual rules. |
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