June 19, 2015

Analysis, part 5 - Topstitching

Another characteristic the DS9/NEM formal jackets shared with their duty uniform counterparts was topstitching at the shoulder and armscye seams; on both of these seams, there was a row of topstitching ⅛" away on each side. The topstitching ran the full length of the shoulder seam and the yoke portion of the armscye seam. 

In other words, where the front and back yokes met across the shoulder, one can observe both the seam AND two rows of topstitching - one on each side, ⅛" from the seam.

Insurrection
Nemesis


The bottom of the yoke was widened or narrowed (horizontally) by increments of quilt lines or half quilt lines (again, that is, ¾" or ⅜", respectively), so that the armscye topstitching at the bottom of the yoke was either flush with a quilt line or fell on a mid-quilt line. 

Quilt line - Insurrection
Mid-quilt line
DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges"
Mid-quilt line
Insurrection


The same was true for the top of the armscye edges of the yoke at the shoulder seam. 

It was also true for the width of the shoulder point itself - that is, the distance from the front corner to the back corner of the shoulder point was adjusted in widths of ¾" or ⅜", with the back of the shoulder point being slightly wider.

In addition to the aesthetic value, the topstitching also served to secure the corresponding seam allowances, which were pressed open, just as was done with the DS9/NEM duty jumpsuits, "captain jackets," and admiral jackets:




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