For all of the jacket body panel pieces, cut two of your body fabric of choice (wool gabardine or cotton twill/wrinklease) and two of your underlining fabric of choice (we recommend muslin), so that each shell piece has an exact muslin counterpart.
(Yes, this doubles the number of pieces to cut, iron, and keep up with, but it will be well worth it; the interfacing fabric gives the garment more body, weight, dimension, and changes its drape ever-so-slightly.)
Iron all the pieces, then pair each body piece with its corresponding underlining.
Serge all of the body pieces to their underlining mates.
We also recommend serging all edges of the sleeves (piece K) and facings (pieces B, C, O, and P).
If you don't have a serger (and/or one is not reasonably available), you can also baste, stitch, or zig-zag stitch the two pieces together within the seam allowance; it's not ideal but it's something, at least!
Here, you can compare a body panel zig-zag stitched to its underlining mate to one serged to it:
You should also have an underlining mate for your collar and collar facing (piece A), but don't worry about those yet. We'll cover the collar assembly process later in the tutorial.
You may also wish to underline the lower bib panel (piece C). If so, serge the layers together in the same style as with the jacket body panels.
Lastly, you will also need to cut two rectangular lengths of fabric for the zipper trim, 1 ¾" wide and about 20" long. These should be white wool gabardine/cotton twill/wrinklease for captain and admiral versions, or gray wool gabardine/cotton twill/wrinklease for the officer version.
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| (We cut ours to 18" above to save time trimming them later; we constructed the size medium and didn't need the full 20".) |
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