NOTE: With our pattern, we have included a total of four collar options: a 1" collar (a la Captain Picard and Admiral Ross) and a 1 ½" collar (a la Commander Riker and Dr. Bashir), with two fitting options each. Option #1 is for people with more square neck bases, and option #2 is for people whose necks curve more gradually out form their shoulders. This should allow you to create a perfectly fitting collar for your uniform! We recommend making a couple practice collars to determine your ideal sizing/cutting option before beginning.
Sew or baste the collar and collar facing (piece A) to their underlining mates ¼" from each edge.
Cut away the seam allowances of your collar interfacing, then trim away an additional ⅟16".
Hand sew the collar interfacing to the collar's underlining only, being careful not to stitch through to the right side of the garment. (We recommend catch-stitching.) The collar interfacing's edge should be just inside the seam line.
Cut a length of your ⅛" braided, division color piping long enough to attach to the entire collar and extend a little past the front edges.
Using your zipper/piping foot, sew the division piping to the right side of the collar, stitching close to the cord.
Using your zipper/piping foot, sew the collar and collar facing together along the upper edges, right sides together and stitching close to the piping.
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| View from collar facing |
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| View from collar |
Note how the collar interfacing hugs the seam line but doesn't add any unnecessary, unwieldy bulk!
Notch the front seam allowances along the pronounced curve, and clip the remainder of the seam allowances as needed to effectively turn it.
Turn the collar assembly right sides out and press from the wrong (facing) side.
Cut off the excess piping and serge the bottom of the collar assembly.
You may also wish to apply a small amount of liquid fray preventer to the bottom edges of the piping.
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