* White wool gabardine = 2 yards
* Black wool gabardine = 3 yards
* Division color wool gabardine (sleeve cuff division stripes) = ⅛ yard
* White wool elastique = 1 yard for captain and admiral versions, ½ yard for officer version
*Gray wool elastique = ¾ yard (officer version only)
* Gray wool gabardine = 1 yard (officer version only)
As mentioned in our DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit analysis, the loft of the batting seemed to vary over the years.
1 spool of metallic gold embroidery or Sulky thread matching the ½" gold braid/naval lace
The correct dye to match the screen-used gray wool elastique and wool gabardine is "mouse grey" by Pro Chemical and Dye.
Alternatively, one can purchase gray wool elastique and matching wool gabardine from International Silks and Woolens.
* Batting = ½ yard
As mentioned in our DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit analysis, the loft of the batting seemed to vary over the years.
The original uniforms reportedly used typical low-loft batting, such as that likely available at your local fabric store, and that it is what we at Bad Wolf Costumes prefer to use.
* White lining = 2 yards
TRIMS:
* Underlining fabric (muslin will do nicely) = 2 ½ yards
An "underlining" is simply another cut of fabric which is cut identically to the fashion fabric then serged, sewn, or basted to the fashion fabric inside the seam allowance so the two layers act as one.
An "underlining" is simply another cut of fabric which is cut identically to the fashion fabric then serged, sewn, or basted to the fashion fabric inside the seam allowance so the two layers act as one.
* Fusible interfacing = ½ yard
* Collar interfacing = ½ yard
We recommend using "Heavyweight collar interfacing" from B. Black and Sons.
* Collar interfacing = ½ yard
We recommend using "Heavyweight collar interfacing" from B. Black and Sons.
* White lining = 2 yards
TRIMS:
* ⅛" braided collar piping, division color of choice = ¾ yard
* ½" metallic gold braid/naval lace = 10 yards
Metallic gold naval lace isn't difficult to find; numerous Internet-based fabric and trim shops carry it in varying quality and price ranges, including but not limited to:
> Vanguard
> eBay!!!
* ⅛" gold/black twisted piping = 12 yards for officer and captain versions, 14 yards for admiral version
* 3/16", ¼", or ⅜" twisted/braided piping, division color of choice = 4 yards
We recommend using smaller rather than larger division-colored pipings on the trousers.
Also, check in your local fabric stores' upholstery/pillow sections! We found some decent pipings (albeit ⅜") at our local Hobby Lobby:
If you are unable to find suitable upholstery piping locally, it's easy to find online. We recommend first looking on Sew-Biz Fabrics.
ACCESSORIES, NOTIONS, SUPPLIES, ETC.
Walking foot or quilting foot for sewing machine (or an actual quilting machine)
Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine
Quilting needles for sewing machine
Metallic/topstitching needles for sewing machine
1 spool of white (or off-white) thread matching wool gabardine and elastique
1 spool of black thread
1 spool of gray thread matching wool gabardine and elastique (officer version only)
1 spool of metallic gold embroidery or Sulky thread matching the ½" gold braid/naval lace
Disappearing ink pen for fabric
Liquid fray preventer
1 can of temporary fabric spray adhesive
3 hook-and-eye closures (2 white, 1 black)
16"-20" lightweight separating jacket zipper (white for captain and admiral versions, gray or black for officer version)
20" black invisible zipper
1 yard of 2" waistband elastic
2 yards of ¾" or 1" black elastic
1 pair of shoulder pads
The usual stuff (scissors, seam ripper, bobbins, hand needles, etc.)
Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended; it will not only make your workflow easier and sewing room cleaner (fewer threads, frays, etc. all over the place), but it will also prolong the life of the garment itself by keeping the pattern pieces and seams in better condition.
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