June 19, 2015

Analysis, part 7 - Trims

Perhaps one of the most memorable features of the DS9/NEM formal uniform was the gold trim that adorned the bottom of the yoke and shoulder points, as well as the sides of the bib (wrapping around the neckline) and the side seams of the trousers' pant legs. 

The trim was similar in function to the gray wool gabardine bias trim seen on the standard duty uniforms of the DS9/NEM era (which was also used as the zipper trim on the formal jackets). 

The trim itself was actually comprised of two separate components: ½" gold metallic trim similar (if not identical) in style to naval lace, and ⅛" black/gold twisted piping. With the exception of the sleeve cuff embellishments, the two were sewn together to form a single piece of ⅝" trim, which was topstitched onto the formal jacket during construction.



Here's a close-up photo of the trim on a screen-used formal jacket, again shared by Robert Winthrow on the Starfleet 1701st:



Thanks again for sharing, Robert! 

If you examine carefully, you'll see that the ⅛" gold/black piping had a cord that was not uniform in diameter, but that the gold portion was about ⅛" while the black portion was more like 16".


Here are some additional detail photos of the trim assembly from auction listings:



The raw edges of the trim were either simply topstitched over with another length of trim (as was the case with the yoke/bib intersection at the center front) or sewn into the seams (such as at the armscye and jacket bottom).



As mentioned previously, the gold trim was similar in function to the gray wool gabardine bias trim seen on the duty uniforms of the era, so it should come as no surprise that the trim was "mitered" at the bottom corner of the shoulder point in the same manner, and the bottom corner was on the "center" quilt line - that is, the quilt line that aligned with the shoulder seam.

Insurrection publicity photo
Insurrection
(auction photo)



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