An interesting characteristic of the DS9/NEM formal jackets that varied considerably amongst the cast was a curvature of the upper bib/yoke seam line from the bottom of the yoke to the collar at the shoulder seam. Some of us fans have come to call this the "swerve."
In other words, instead of the outer/side edges of the bib dropping vertically from the shoulder seam (see Data's formal jacket below), the upper portion of the bib gracefully widened to the shoulder seam to accommodate the neck of the wearer (see Captain Picard's formal jacket below):
 |
| Nemesis |
The extent of this "swerve" seems to have been determined solely by the lower portion of the bib being a fixed width, regardless of the wearer's size, then being widened as needed from the yoke/body seam line upward to the collar to accommodate larger necks.
As you can see, the extent of the "swerve" varied widely amongst the cast, from a straight drop (Data) to a fairly pronounced curve (Admiral Ross, Captain Picard, and Commander Riker):
 |
| No swerve |
 |
| Slight swerve |
 |
| Pronounced swerve |
 |
| Insurrection |
And, once again, Mr. Vulcan Extra in Insurrection takes the cake for the most extreme swerve we observed:
NOTE: On our formal jacket pattern, we adjusted the curvature of the "swerve" by maintaining a fixed bib width beneath the yoke and gracefully widening to the collar's edge at the shoulder seam as needed with each larger size. Size "small" is a vertical drop, a la Data's jacket, and with each size increase, the swerve grows increasingly more pronounced.
PREVIOUS: Analysis, part 7 - Trims
No comments:
Post a Comment