Cut the shoulder point and yoke trims down to size (so the edges are flush with the fabric edges) and apply a liberal amount of liquid fray preventer.
Once it's dry, pin the sleeve on the appropriate side of the jacket body, matching the "center" quilt line with the shoulder seam and the lower edges of the shoulder point with the bottom of the jacket body's yoke.
Baste the sleeve to the jacket body. Flip the garment around (right sides out) and inspect to confirm proper alignment of the "center" quilt line and shoulder seam, as well as the shoulder point trim with the body's yoke trim.
Once satisfied with the proper alignment, stitch the sleeve to the jacket body. We recommend stitching twice for thoroughness (as done before with the yoke), as well as reinforcing at the shoulder seam and bottom of the shoulder point/yoke.
Press the armscye seam allowances open using a tailor's ham.
It's at this point that you'll be glad you clipped out the batting/backing in a few areas to reduce bulk!
As done previously with the shoulder seam, topstitch both the yoke and shoulder point ⅛" on each side of and parallel to the armscye seam, forming three parallel lines and securing the seam allowances in place.
Remember, the bottom of the armscye topstitch should meet a quilt line or a mid-quilt line on the yoke and, and at the shoulder seam the yoke topstitch should "peak" where the next quilt line would be.
Remember, the bottom of the armscye topstitch should meet a quilt line or a mid-quilt line on the yoke and, and at the shoulder seam the yoke topstitch should "peak" where the next quilt line would be.
Also, ideally, the yoke and shoulder point trims should meet exactly:
However, if they're off by a hair, nobody's likely to notice ...
Repeat for the other side.
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