The admiral/flag officer version of the formal jacket sleeve cuffs was similar in construction to the officer/captain versions, except it had an additional division stripe and inner layer.
The assembly itself is in seven pieces, plus interfacing and the ⅛" gold/black piping cuts.
First, fuse the interfacing to the sleeve cuff bands (piece L).
This will give them more dimension, as they tend to look disappointingly flat without it. It will also make the cuff sturdier, which is particularly important for the upper band; you don't want it to flop around!
Then cut four lengths of your ⅛" gold/black twisted piping the width of your sleeve cuff assembly plus 1-2".
The sleeve cuff pattern pieces, "in order," will look like this:
Start by sewing the upper band (piece L) to the inner layer (piece M), right sides together and edges flush.
Press the seam allowances upward, and press the inner layer down.
Fold the band piece over the seam allowances and press it down toward the underside, so that the wrong sides of the band and inner layer are facing and their lower edges are flush. This forms the actual band.
Using your zipper/piping foot, sew two lengths of ⅛" gold/black twisted piping to the right side of the upper division stripe (piece N), with ¼" seam allowance, edges flush and with a bit of the piping overhanging at each end. (Remember, your piping either needs to already have a ¼" lip or been cut down to size.)
Sew the upper inner layer to the division stripe with ¼" seam allowance, with the long edges of the division stripe and the inner layer flush and right sides together.
Press the seam allowances toward the division stripe.
Sew the upper cuff assembly to the middle inner layer.
Press the seam allowances toward the division stripe.
Repeat the assembly process for the lower half of the sleeve cuff assembly.
Sew the lower sleeve cuff assembly to the upper sleeve cuff assembly along the lower edge of the middle inner layer and the upper edge of the lower division stripe, right sides together and with ¼" seam allowance.
Press the lower half of the sleeve cuff assembly down, with the seam allowances toward the lower division stripe.
Cut off the excess piping and apply a liberal amount of liquid fray preventer to the raw edges.
Sew the sleeve cuff closed along the sides (with the bands open), matching seam lines and right sides facing.
Press the seam allowances open.
Turn the sleeve cuff assembly right sides out.
The edges should all align perfectly at the seam line.
Fold the bands under again and pin the undersides of the bands in place along the band/inner layer seam lines.
"Stitch in the ditch" along the band/inner layer seam lines to secure the undersides of the bands.
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