Jacket Tutorial, part 15 - Lining Assembly

Sew the lower bib panel facing (piece C) to the bottom of the bib facing (piece B), right sides together, with ½" seam allowance.

Press the lower bib panel facing and seam allowances downward.

Sew the bib facing assembly to the front lining (piece Q), right sides together, with ⅝" seam allowances, leaving the bottommost 3-4" free. 

The bottom of the bib assembly should extend ⅜" past the bottom of the front lining.

TIP: You may wish to taper the ⅝" seam allowances to as little as ¼" an inch or two from the beginnings and ends of the seam lines to give the lining body some additional fullness and avoid any pulling/contorting/etc. of the garment body once the two are "married" later.

Press the seam allowances toward the body (away from center). 

OPTIONAL: add pockets in a style of your choice. On the pattern, we have included recommended pocket placements for ½" by 5" welt or double-welt pockets. 

Depending on your physique, you may wish to move the pocket placements, and those with larger hands may wish to widen the pocket opening, but these should at least be a good place to start. The pocket should begin immediately below the breast, and the pocket pouch should not extend into the hem facings. 

We recommend using the shell fabric (white wool gabardine or white cotton twill) for the welts, and any fabric should do nicely for the pocket pouches; we like to use the white lining fabric, but white muslin would work well, too.

Repeat for the other side. 

Sew the two back linings (piece R) together along the center back, right sides together, with the standard ⅜" seam allowance. Press seam allowances open.

Sew the front lining assemblies to the back lining assembly at the shoulders. Press seam allowances open. 

Sew the sleeve linings (piece S) to the lining body assembly, matching notches. Press seam allowances open. 

Sew the lining body sides closed, matching edges and seam lines. Press seam allowances open. 

TIP: Rather than pressing the lining seam allowances open, you may instead wish to serge them together. 

TIP: With the exception of the front lining/bib facing assembly, the lining pieces all have our standard ⅜" seam allowance, but, as mentioned previously, you may wish to taper them to ¼" an inch or two from the beginnings and ends of the seam lines to give the lining body some additional fullness. 

Baste ⅜" from the bottom edges of the lining body and sleeves, then press the bottom upward 1".

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